Detangling: If you're not used to handling and caring for natural hair, getting started can be tough. Always work in sections. It is too easy to get overwhelmed trying to detangle or style a whole head of hair at once. I suggest you invest in several sets hair clips. I also learned that water is your friend. Curly/kinky hair should only be detangled when wet and with a wide-toothed comb. Start from the ends and work your way up. Some people use a Denman paddle brush to smooth out and detangle sections of hair, but if your hair is really curly/kinky I would stick with the wide-toothed comb. When you're detangling your hair, remember the weakest parts of your hair will be where the new natural growth meets up with the relaxed hair and where the curl bends. Not paying special attention to these area will result in damage and extra frizziness. Take your time when detangling and don't be afraid to spray some extra water on to help loosen up any tangles. If you do come across 'the mother of all tangles', you can try snipping it out with a pair of hair shears. Pulling and forcing the tangle will result in breakage.
Shampoo and Conditioner: One of the things I learned pretty quickly was that traditional shampoo was not going to work with my natural hair. As my transition went on, I noticed when I used traditional shampoo, it stripped my natural hair of all of its moisture leaving it dry, frizzy and especially hard to detangle. Traditional shampoos have harsh sulfates in them that tend to leave more pourous curly hair with less moisture than straight hair. This is when I started co-washing, using conditioner to detangle and add moisture to my hair then risning it out which left my hair soft, manageable and clean. When preparing to wash my hair, I usually section it off holding each section in place with a clip. Then going section by section I spray it down with water, detangle and add conditioner to the detangled section. Once all sections have conditioner on them, I let it stay in for an hour or two for deep conditioning. In the shower, I take down one section of at a time to rinse and detanlge it before putting it back into the clip. It sounds like a lot of work; but in the end, it makes the job of styling your hair much easier. Every three weeks or so, I do use a low detergent shampoo to get rid of any build up I have and this systems has worked well for me.
Styling: In my opinion, this has been the hardest part for me. When it comes to what keeps your hair moisturized and healthy, one product may work wonders for you; but it may not work so great for someone else. For example, many women rave about the wonders of coconut oil yet it doesn't penetrate my hair and just makes it oily. The same goes for pomades, puddings and most other products you would use for styling. My best advice when it comes to product is buy small or trial sizes if available, that way you're not spending too much or wasting a huge amount of product if you happen to not like it. Unless you have an allergic reaction or the smell of a product makes you gag, give the product at least two weeks of testing time. Also, start your testing period with clean hair. That way you avoid adding the new product to exisisting build up.
Ah, the dreaded frizzies. I live in Humid, Texas (better known as Houston) so frizzy hair is nothing new to me. I have been experimenting with a few products to keep my curls looking their best and so far, aloe vera gel has worked best; but it can be hard to find. There are a few styling products I'd like to try out and see if that aids in the frizz fight; but I really have come to terms with it. My hair is my hair, and it reacts to the enviroment just like everything else and I just don't feel the need to constantly "fix" my hair to suit someone's ideal.
Some of the best styles for those that are transistioning from relaxed to natural are:
- Two-strand Twists
- Flat Twists (I have yet to figure out how to do this)
- Bantu or Nubian Knots
- Twist-Out
- Twist and Curl
As you can see, from this last paragraph, transitioning is a continual. Even as I try to give direction to others, I am still learning new things about my own hair everyday. I have been known to fall in love with a product or routine only to fall out of love with it a month later. To me, it is like losing weight and keeping it off, you basically have to change your lifestyle and that's the way I feel about my hair transition. I've had to change my whole outlook and practice of caring for my hair.* The best advice I can give is to not give up. Things will get easier as your routine becomes more...routine (sorry, I couldn't resist).
*If anyone reading this knows me, they are giving me SERIOUS side-eye on this comment. I know my mom is saying, "What the hell do YOU know about weight loss?" I do watch "The Biggest Loser" fyi...
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